Source: superuser.com
802.11h+d
This option restricts your card to either 802.11h, 802.11d or both; which are under certain regulations. For example, 802.11h is designed to comply with European regulations. If you want to comply to those, this option is for you; but in general, I live there and I'm just using 802.11n.
Afterburner
Only when you have a 802.11g network, enabling this option on both the router as your laptop can result in a better throughput. You might want to verify change with a speed and ping test though. Be sure to read the documentation provided by both your wireless card and router for an explanation and to check compatibility...
Antenna Diversity
This only applies if you have two antennas, you can select which antenna to use. However, you should probably leave this to the default which automatically switches between both antennas based on the signal strength.
AP Compatibility Mode
If you have a very old router, this option will trade performance for compatibility. You don't need this option if you are already able to internet with your network card and are connected to the right AP.
Band Preference
This option might be handy if you have interference at home on the 2.4 GHz or 5 GHz band or need to comply to regulations that restrict the use of a band; it's best to leave this to it's default so that you can connect to both as you can just configure the band on the router to avoid interference.
Bandwidth Capability
Within a frequency range like 2.4 GHz or 5 GHz, 20 MHz stands for a single channel while 40 MHz will take multiple neighboring channels. As this again can be configured in the router, you can leave this to the default as you most likely don't want to restrict the compatibility of your card.
Bluetooth Collaboration
This avoids your WiFi and Bluetooth from interferring each other by surpressing each others signal when they are both sending something, unless you have throughput problems on either it's best to leave this option enabled.
BSS Mode
This can again be used to restrict your card to 802.11b/g or 802.11b, it's best to leave this option default for compatibility reasons unless you need to change them under certain regulations.
BT-AMP
This amplifies Bluetooth by sending it over a 802.11 link, where you can get 10x speed compared to the Bluetooth standard. You could try to play with this option if you need improved Bluetooth performance.
Disable Bands
Rather than giving a band preference, this actually disables a band. This thus has the same reasoning as listed under the "Band Preference" bullet point; use your router instead...
Disable Upon Wired Connection
Does what it says. It's up to yourself to see what works best if you have this use case.
Fragmentation Threshold
The size at which a packet is is fragmented into multiple packets, see MTU for more details. In the past, I usually have set this to 1492 given that's the maximum my connection could support; but now I'm using jumbo frames on my network so I removed the limit again.
You can determine the largest MTU possible for your connection and optionally change this option. You might want to test just like I mentioned in the "Afterburner" bullet point.
IBSS 54g Protection Mode
Although a weird name, this is an implementation of 802.11 RTS/CTS which is only enabled when a 802.11b node joins an ad hoc network; if you are sure there won't be such nodes you could disable this option, but given that it's automatic you can leave it default.
IBSS Mode
Most likely you are not using an ad hoc network, but this allows you to select whether to use 802.11b or 802.11g in that case. In a normal use case you don't need to change this setting.
Locally Administered MAC Address
Allows you to change the MAC Address of your wireless network card, please note that they must remain unique. I would suggest against changing this, unless you need it for one or another reason.
Minimum Power Consumption
This will stop scanning for networks or turn off the camera when you disconnect from a network or when your laptop is idle. This is enabled by default, this might help the network card to reconnect when the signal is low so you might want to try to disable it.
PLCP Header
This sets the Complimentary Code Keying header, by default it automatically switched between long and short based on the situation the card is in. It's best to leave it like this as it removes overhead in some situations, in extreme occasions it might be necessary to set this to long.
Priority & VLAN
By default; the packets in the queue are transmitted on a first-come, first-served basis, regardless of any priority information within the packet. When enabling this setting you can give certain classes [background (BG), best-effort (BE), video (VI), and voice (VO)] a priority in the queue. Then you can optionally choose whether the VLAN has priority or not. This setting is related to QoS, it doesn't help with low signal problems but rather when you want to attempt to improve throughput of certain classes.
Rate (802.11a)
Here, you can limit the rate. You should not need to do this.
Rate (802.11b/g)
Here, you can limit the rate. You should not need to do this.
Roam Tendency
This setting allows to roam (reconnect) to a different wireless router/AP if the signal difference is significant, thus it only applies when you have different wireless router/APs providing the same work (like in an university or big company).
The default is set to a difference of 20 dB, aggresive will set this to 10 dB and conservative sets this to 30 dB. The names of these options sure have a meaning, note that changing between wireless router/APs isn't instant.
Roaming Decision
This decides when it will start to roam; it is the signal strength value that determines when the WLAN card starts scanning for another wireless router/AP. The default is 75 dB, you can choose to optimize bandwidth (65 dB) or optimize distance (85 dB). Just like Roam Tendency, this setting only matters when you have different wireless router/APs available.
RTS Threshhold
RTS stands for "Request to Send", this setting controls at what packet size the low level protocol issues an RTS packet. The default is 2346.
NetGear lists several trade-offs to consider setting this parameter:
Using a small value causes RTS packets to be sent more often, consuming more of the available bandwidth, therefore reducing the apparent throughput of the network packet.
However, the more RTS packets that are sent, the quicker the system can recover from interference or collisions -- as would be the case in a heavily loaded network, or a wireless network with much electromagnetic interference.
Thus, if there aren't much stations it's best to leave this to it's default; if you instead in a heavily loaded network then lowering this option can help stability / throughput.
Wake-up Mode
This allows for waking the network card up from a low power state when it receives an amount of packets; this can result in a difference in response time when you host a server and nobody was connected for some time, note that this includes services like hosting files over the local network.
WMM
Wi-Fi MultiMedia is a set of features for Wi-Fi networks that improve the user experience for audio, video, and voice applications by prioritizing data traffic.
As with any features that try to improve your experience, it's necessary to test whether the setting has a positive or negative impact on the data traffic you do. While this setting works for most users, it doesn't work for every use case that exist there. This does, however, not improve reception.
WZC IBSS Channel Number
The WZC IBSS Channel Number property selects the independent basic service set (IBSS) channel number on which to operate when Wireless Zero Configuration (a Microsoft service) is managing your wireless networks. The default setting is 11.
If your connection works, you don't need to change this. As for optimizing the channel used for your wireless network, that needs to be changed on the router and not on the card. However, after ever changing the number on your router you might want to look into this setting.
Xpress™ Technology
This is a proprietary frame bursting technology that improves throughput by repackaging data so that more data can be sent in each frame. Xpress Technology is disabled by default.
Again, like WMM, this might result in a throughput but it has to be tested. It will not affect reception; but, due to the repacking it might result in less interference or collissions in combination with RTS.
Source: overclockers.com
Perfect guide to removing pins so you can sleeve your PSU ^^
Materials:
[MOLEX 4-PIN FEMALE/MALE]
Pen
Molex 4-pin Y-Splitter
Razor Blade or Scissors
Sink
Some sort of long thing to clean with (I used tissues twisted up)
Tweezers (Optional)
Paperclip
Power Supply to test remover on
[ATX/P4/AUX/FLOPPY/S-ATA]
Floppy Disc
Scissors
HotGlue/STRONG Tape
Paper Clip (Thin Diameter required for every connector other than ATX/P4)
Small hands, or a clamp
Spare Power Supply to test on
Molex 4-Pin Female/Male Connectors
(COMMON FOR BOTH CONNECTORS)
Take the pen. Disassemble it down to the ink. Now, cut off the tip (the nib, the part you write with). And, if necassary, the back end (there might be a thing blocking the tube at the back of the tube). When the ink starts to flow out, hold the ink tube under HOT water (get tweezers if needed) and watch the ink drop out of the tube...
Once it starts to clear up, and no more ink falls out of the tube, you will need to do the tricky part... What I did was take a tissue, and then from the corner, twist it up so the tissue gets REALLY small. I then stuck it in the tube, twisting as it goes in the tube.. then pull it out, and repeat until around 3/4" of the tube has absolutely NO ink in it. You will be able to see through the tube, only 3/4" is needed to be clear. The remaining "ink" is just caked onto the sides of the tube and won't flow out. Here is a pic of how to twist a tissue to slip in the tube:
http://www.bostonrinkrats.com/solidx...tubefemale.jpg
Then, fully cleared tubes look like this:
http://www.bostonrinkrats.com/solidx...leanedtube.jpg
Now that the tube is cleared of ink, the easy part comes:
(MALE CONNECTOR)
You are already done =P. Stick an open end of the tube into a male plug in the y-splitter. Twist it around a bit, and then pull on the wire. It should come out with a little force. Sometimes the tube won't fit all the way into the molex, so you might need to get another, smaller, ink tube (I use a small tube for the male, and a large tube for the female). Now, take the paper clip, straighten it enough to fit in the tube, and push the paper clip into the pin until the pin slides out.
(FEMALE CONNECTOR)
Here is a weird part. Get the razor blade. Now, like most tutorials/guides you may have read about the "pen trick" molex remover, it says to cut the tube... WRONG!
What you want to do is make the inside of the tube bigger in diameter. Which in turn makes the tubing "thinner". Take the OTHER side of the male pin remover, and insert a sharp corner of the razor blade inside the tube...
Now, twist the razor around in circles, so it shaves a bit off of the tubing. It probably won't be that visible, but it will shave off the tubing a bit...
Occasionally, after a few twists of the razor blade, pull out the razor, and try to see if the tube will fit around the female pin. If it is really hard to get around the pin, but if it does slip over the pin, push the tube all the way in, and then pull out the corresponding wire (this will require a firm tug of the wire, it doesn't just fall out). Now, while the wire is out, stick the tube over the bare pin, and keep shaving a bit of the tube. After every few twists, stick the tube over the bare pin again. There are two "tabs" that stick up a bit. As so:
--------\--------
--------/--------
...
A bad ASCII drawing, but its kind of like that. When you are putting the tube over the pin, your goal is to push the tabs down. As long as the tube makes a snug fit over the pin, and it pushes the tab down, your remover is working (the reason I am against making a "slit" in the end of the ink-tube is because the tube eventually seperates and doesn't push the tabs down, thus making the pins impossible to remove). Now, to remove the pin, get a paperclip, straighten it, and push the pin out... the paper clip might have to be pretty long, it goes ALL the way into the pin (almost to the back of the molex). Also, to shave off inner diameter of tubing, you can get a small drill bit, and twist it by HAND.
Some pens have a thick outer diameter, so you may need to shave that down. My latest female remover had a thick tube, so I got some 150grit sandpaper and sanded the end of the tube down:
http://www.bostonrinkrats.com/solidx...eddowntube.jpg
Well, theres a free Molex Pin-Remover, Female and Male, ALL in a 4" pen ink-tube... Double-sided molex removal goodness =P
Have fun sleeving and the likes =P
By the way, different pens use different diameter ink-tubes (the differences are less than millimeters!)... Sometimes a small one won't fit the female pins, and vice versa for bigger ones. I made a back to back remover, male on one end (small tube) and female on the other (large tube). And when the ink starts dropping, you might wanna cover your nose, it smells =P
Finished Product:
Molex 4-Pin Removers
Remover in Plug
Pin Removed
ATX, P4, AUX, Floppy, Fan and S-ATA Connectors
Okay this gets annoying, but its well worth it (for me)...
Well, first, get the spare floppy disc. You see the sliding metal part? Rip it off... You can slide it, and slip your finger under it, or something like that, just rip it off some way or another without warping it too much...
Now, here comes the hardest part... Cut off two thin pieces of the metal that you just ripped off with some scissors... Careful, this metal is sharp... Now, get the ATX connector, and then see if the metal fits... the little pieces have to be THIN to fit within the ATX connector... anyway, get the two pieces, and try to stick them to the SIDE of the ATX pin (the pins are square, and the left and right side each have a tab to push down, like the Molex 4-Pin pins)... Like, take one metal piece, and try to slide it in the right side of the pin, then take the other piece, and slide it in the opposite side... the metal piece has to be big enough to fit ALL the way down into the pin housing... Be VERY gentle with the metal pieces, they bend VERY easily, and when they get bent, they are hard to insert in the pins... If the metal strips are difficult to get inside the connector, see if they are bent or are too thick to get it (they have to be EXTREMELY thin at the end)... The housing of these connectors seem to get smaller the farther in you look at 'em...
Once you get both pieces of metal inside the pin housing, see if you can pull the wire out of the housing... It should take a strong pull, but not too strong... If it doesn't come out, try taking out both pieces of metal, and SLIGHTLY (can't stress that enough) bending them inwards, so it will depress the pin's tab better... Keep doing that until you can remove the pin...
Now that the pin is removed, bend the tabs up more again (they will be close to the pin)... You can use a fingernail, or a razor, something that can fit in between the tab and pin...
Place the pin back in the connector, and remove the metal pieces... Now, take the two metal pieces and hotglue them together... I would NOT reccommend tape, but if need be, use it... When gluing the connectors, DON'T glue them close together... Glue them a little narrowly spaced than the normal ATX pin... This way, when you insert the remover, it will have a little 'spring-action' and depress the tabs on the pin easier... Also, if you want this to be a universal remover, get the thin paper-clip, and cut off a small section of it... Glue it to the two metal pieces...
Finished product:
Pin Remover
Remover in ATX Pin
ATX Pin removed
Remover in AUX Pin
AUX Pin Removed
I have made a new kind of remover yesterday. It is a male 4-pin molex remover. On a standard 'neon' style pen, with the bright ink, there is the ink tube inside of the plastic pen. Then, at the end of the tube, is a plastic holder with the metal pen tip. And then that goes inside the plastic pen. Then there is a metal cover that screws onto the outer plastic of the pen holding the ink in place. Anyway, I was makin a new female pin remover, and when I saw the metal cap, an idea flashed. I fit it over a male pin, and it fit snugly. Was good enough to be a permanent male pin remover. But then I had an even BETTER idea! I took the plastic tip holder off the tube of ink in the pen. Put it in the metal cap backwards, and pushed it in. The pin came straight out of its housing, just had to pull it all the way out. I then wished I had a way for the 'plunger' to stay in the metal cap. I saw a spring layin on my floor, so another idea flashed. Got the spring, placed it on the 'plunger', fit PERFECTLY. Hot-glued it down. Then, I put some glue over the other side of the spring, and placed it in the metal cap. Now, I slip the metal cap over a pin, push on the 'plunger', and the pin is loose. Just pull out :)
Pics:
http://www.bostonrinkrats.com/solidxsnake/overclockin'/Comp%20Pics/Guides/Molex%20Pin%20Remover/maleremoverdisassembled.jpg
In this pic, the plunger is on the LEFT, the metal cap is on the right, and the spring is in the middle, heh
http://www.bostonrinkrats.com/solidxsnake/overclockin'/Comp%20Pics/Guides/Molex%20Pin%20Remover/halfassembled.jpg
In this one you see where I hotglued the 'plunger' to the spring.
and Fully assembled:
http://www.bostonrinkrats.com/solidxsnake/overclockin'/Comp%20Pics/Guides/Molex%20Pin%20Remover/assembledmale.jpg
Also, on today's update, I added pics of how to clean the 4-pin female remover